Outdoors

    We Tried Alcohol-Free Beers. Here’s How They Stack Up

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    Suntory All-Free (Image by Bay Roan Creative)

    These days, more people — especially among younger generations — are choosing to reduce their alcohol intake, or even to eliminate it entirely. The major driver of this trend involves health factors: All you have to do is look at posts on Garmin forums or social media pages to see people talking about how alcohol consumption negatively impacted their sleep metrics or their workout readiness.

    Yet health isn’t the only reason people may shy away from alcohol. Other factors include religious beliefs, greater environmental and ecological awareness or first-hand experience with destructive or addictive behavior patterns among friends and family.

    This has opened the door to breweries that specialize in non-alcoholic or alcohol-free beer and allowed them a foothold in the market.

    And yes, there is very specific terminology that separates “non-alcohol beer” and “alcohol-free beer.” Non-alcohol beers have significantly less alcohol than their standard counterparts, but that doesn’t mean the amount is zero. Government guidelines state that non-alcoholic beers may have up to 0.5% Alcohol By Volume (ABV), while standard beers average about 4.4% ABV.

    Alcohol-free beer, on the other hand, is legitimately free of alcohol. When you see this label, you can expect it to be 0.0% ABV.

    “The NA beer market is growing double digits, and within that market, AF beers are also growing,” said Jodi Villa, co-founder and CEO of Ceria Brewing, an alcohol-free brewery. “We don’t see this as a niche, but as a strong move toward health and wellness while not giving up the great taste and social lubricant that beer brings to consumers.”

    Finding an alternative amid that social aspect is certainly difficult for many who enjoy playing outdoors. Pub runs are a common part of local trail- and road-running communities, and it’s almost second nature for many to recount the adventures of a long hike or camping trip at the table of a local craft brewery.

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    Image by Ryan Tipps

    I quit drinking alcohol in 2020 during the COVID-19 pandemic. I have genuinely missed the taste of my favorite beers and have been left out of some social gatherings, but I feel my decision was right for me.

    Despite major non-alcoholic brands such as Athletic Brewing being promoted at Ragnar Relays and other running events I have attended, NA beers never had appeal to me because they did still have some alcohol in them.

    So when AF beers came on my radar, I was intrigued. Could I possibly get to enjoy a taste similar to a traditional beer and rebuild some of the social aspects of drinking?

    Two brands, Colorado-based Ceria Brewing and Japan-based Suntory, sent samples to a few of us at ActionHub so that we could do some taste-testing.

    First, a little background. Ceria is a family-run brewery led by Jodi and Keith Villa. In the mid 1990s, Keith created Blue Moon beer and served as a brewmaster for Coors Brewing Co. When Keith retired in 2017 and the Villas launched Ceria, the original drinks were infused with cannabis — though they have moved away from the cannabis market until it becomes federally legal.

    Keith’s Ph.D. in brewing from the University of Brussels and decades-long experience in the industry enabled him to create a patented method of producing AF beer that the company says has body, flavor and head retention. Ceria’s beers are also tunnel pasteurized for shelf stability, safety and so that any residual yeast doesn’t grow and result in an alcoholic beer.

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    Image by Heidi Crnkovic

    “We are aware of only two ways to create a true AF beer: through vacuum distillation and through Ceria’s patented method,” Jodi Villa said. “Vacuum distillation requires expensive equipment and utilities, while Ceria’s method does not require any special equipment. Regardless of how an NA or AF beer is made, pasteurization is crucial so that pathogens do not grow in the beer and so that any residual live brewer’s yeast does not turn NA/AF beer into an alcoholic product in the can.”

    Just like Ceria, Suntory doesn’t technically call itself a “beer” on the can, but rather a malt beverage created at a brewery. Suntory’s production method removes the fermentation process entirely and bills itself as a “crisp and light refreshment” with no alcohol, calories or sugar. It is intended to bring a rich beer flavor to the can, without all of the setbacks of a typical beer.

    So we wanted to see how these alcohol-free beers (or, AF malt beverages, if you’d prefer) stack up to the beers most people throw back after an outing in the woods, a rock climb or a distance race.

    Three folks at ActionHub (myself, Heidi Crnkovic and Lucie Hanes) each tried Ceria’s Belgian-style white ale called Grainwave, their hoppy IPA called Indiewave, and Suntory’s All-Free sparkling malt and hops beverage.

    Look below to get our thoughts:

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    Ceria Brewing’s Grainwave (Image by Bay Roan Creative)

    Ceria Grainwave

    Ryan: I’ll admit that back when I did drink beer, Belgians were my go-to, so Grainwave really connected nicely with my taste buds. It has a sturdy taste — meaning it feels like a beer rather than a light juice despite the fact that it leans in heavily to citrus flavorings. And I appreciate the zest that the orange-peel and coriander profile delivered, with a taste that lasts from the beginning of the sip all the way to the end. It doesn’t feel like I am drinking an alcohol-free beer, and it’s clear that Ceria Brewing understands how to make their Grainwave beverage mimic a traditional Belgian-Style White. 

    Heidi: This Belgian-Style White is all of the things malty, sweet and flavorful that one might expect in a Belgian. The orange peel and coriander blend seamlessly in the Grainwave, with an excellent mouthfeel and aroma, although the citrus does seem to overpower the hops blended into the brew with its sweet, heavy flavor. While not a perfect substitute for my favorite Belgians, the low calories and zero alcohol were certainly a bonus.

    Lucie: This is the AF beer for people (like yours truly) that aren’t too big on the taste of traditional beer in the first place. Citrus and hops blend beautifully in the Grainwave to create something with a more complex flavor profile than your typical Coors. Think of the Grainwave like juice with a bit of a bite: crisp yet just bitter enough to want to sip slowly and identify the subtle notes. There’s even an unexpected heft to the aftertaste that gives this drink some actual substance in your stomach. I paired the Grainwave with a protein shake (no, not in the same bottle … though that’s an idea) for the perfect ratio of carbs-to-protein in a post-run recovery snack.

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    Image by Heidi Crnkovic

    Ceria Indiewave

    Ryan: The Indiewave is Ceria’s answer to the profile of an traditional IPA — that in-your-face hoppy flavor that tends to dominate other flavors in the drink. And Ceria says its version uses Cascade, Citra and Amarillo hops to give it a smooth, citrus character. I didn’t latch onto the citrus as much as I expected I would, because the beverage presented an earthiness that seemed to take over each sip, but I can see fans of IPAs finding a lot of enjoyment in the Indiewave. For me, IPAs tend to run pretty heavy, and my taste buds favor light and refreshing flavors over heavier ones.  

    Heidi: All of the flavor without the alcohol; Indiewave is a beer with some of the traditional hoppy flavor IPAs. A touch sweeter than some IPA drinkers may be used to, it does leave out a bit of the bitter punch that alcoholic counterparts are sure to hit you with. I’m partial to the fact that Ceria is brewed in Colorado, and it reminds me of a beer that I’d like to sip alongside some wood-fired pizza after a weekend of skiing.

    Lucie: The Indiewave, on the other hand from the Grainwave, is the AF beer for those that really like beer. This one’s dense, heavy, and bready — so much so that I liken it to wolfing down a thick slice of sourdough. I didn’t hate it, but let’s just say I don’t see myself drinking a whole can of this at any point. Those that seek out the most pungent IPA’s will feel right at home. My advice? Go in hungry — the Indiewave will fill you up like the loaf it resembles.

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    Image by Ryan Tipps

    Suntory All-Free

    Ryan: Without a doubt, this is the drink you reach for when you need something crisp and refreshing on a hot day or after a punishing workout. It goes down very easy, capturing some grainy sweetness without overdoing it, and finishing with a light bitterness. I definitely got some pilsner-esque vibes from it, and I’m wondering if that was an intentional differentiation here considering the brand is Japanese, and Asian lagers are so iconic. Plus, it’s calorie-free (along with zero sugar or artificial flavors), which makes this a real gem on the market.

    Heidi: I’m somewhat of a beer lover, so it’s not easy to win me over with zero alcohol alternatives. Crisp, refreshing, and more of a beer version of “naturally” flavored sparkling waters (with a hoppy bite), Suntory All-Free hits the high notes of beer without all of the extra calories. That light, malty taste was reminiscent of light beers enjoyed on a warm day or at a sporting event, except it’s not going to leave you feeling tired or full. And, with a mild flavor, it’s something that pairs with just about anything on your plate.

    Lucie: Suntory takes the opposite approach of Ceria. This hoppy drink is practically made for chugging. It’s more like a beefed-up seltzer than a beer. That’s not a bad thing; it’s incredibly refreshing for midday sipping when the actual taste of beer might not sit so well (or bode well for the rest of your day). Get just a hint, minus the heaviness. The All-Free is right on par with the Asian lagers it mimics. This drink would cut a rich meal nicely, or makes the perfect replacement for an afternoon pick-me-up that you don’t have to hide from your boss.


    Ryan Tipps is Managing Editor for ActionHub. He lives along the Blue Ridge Mountains, is an avid hiker, backpacker and trail runner and has been a part of the wilderness search and rescue community since 2005.